Yesterday was a pretty tough day. We are learning some lessons such as just because a place says it is open and gives hours doesn’t mean it is. So call ahead of time. Between the closed stop and the constant rain and the ups and downs and the mud and road traffic it was tough. But we did choose to do this at this time of year. And we are pilgrims. So carry on!!

I even mentioned to Noël when the cafe wasn’t open maybe we call a cab and get to our destination and then in the morning come back here. He said let’s keep going and if it gets worse we will call a cab. After 2 kms of the 10 we still had I said I’m glad we kept going, because that would have made tomorrow 16 kms instead of 6 and we know that height meters are going to be a lot.

Our hosts, Annemarie and Luc, are a lovely Belgian couple who restored a farmhouse. It is beautiful. We had a good supper and a good sleep. They asked when we wanted breakfast and Noël asked for 10. She was relieved because they had a big group last week and they were up very early everyday. They also ate breakfast with us and seemed to enjoy a late start and a fun conversation. It was Luc’s birthday today.

Our walk today was through the forest a bit. And we encountered hunters again but they informed and assured us that they were finished hunting. Glad we didn’t leave until almost noon. 😂

We could see Vèzelay as soon as we made the first ascent. I commented that it didn’t seem possible we were here already. Even though we have been on camino since 2 January getting to Vèzelay makes it feel like we have really begun, after more than 850 kms.

We passed by a little chapel where worship still takes place and then made the steep climb into Vezelay. I saw the city gate and the sign telling us we were entering Vèzelay and the tears just started flowing. Noël turned and said “are you okay honey?” “Yes…” He then simply held me and said, “we made it.”

We stopped at a little cafe and had a very nice lunch. Found our accommodation, ran errands, made a reservation for dinner, and then made our way to the Basilica. As we were leaving the basilica we saw Annemarie and Luc from last night and had another nice chat.

Tomorrow is a rest day. Again!!

We started out in a steady downpour and it lasted the entire day. At first we were in a busy road and quickly found an alternative route. It was straight up and probably added a kilometer to our 19 kms day.

We found ourselves in the forest a good part of the day which in many ways beats dodging traffic on the busy highways. We had a couple of close calls the last two days even with being hyper vigilant.

Our planned stop didn’t pan out. We have gotten used to this but still get disappointed. this probably added another 2 kms to our 19 kms. We ended up with nearly 24 kms.

We arrived at our lovely accommodation drenched and muddy. They brought baskets for us to put our wet stuff in so they could put it in a drying room. I was standing in their very clean welcoming area dripping water and mud. I kept apologizing but they said no worries.

We scheduled massages after our arrival. Very welcome. Our host gave me the key and said the small key was to get out the back if we wanted to take a walk. She paused and said, “sorry a bad joke!” I laughed and said no very funny. 😄

The massage was great and our host is fixed us soup since there are no stores or restaurants close by. It was delicious!!

I’ll post pictures later.

One of the fun things about Europe and especially France and Spain is that you can see church spires several miles away. We are constantly saying I see a church!!! which means that we are getting close to a resting spot.

Most churches, however are closed, except for baptisms, weddings and funerals. In the bigger cities they are open but in the smaller cities and villages they are closed and often look like they are in bad repair.

We happened into a village yesterday and found the church open. But it was only because the priest was preparing for a baptism for Pia. Even on Sunday there are no services.

I mentioned to Noël how interesting it would be to ask to buy or rent a church and make it into a place for worship, pilgrim hostel and place to eat and enjoy company. I’m still thinking how cool. At least they would be used more often.

We sat in front of a closed church door today for our first stop to eat half a sandwich.

It’s interesting being on pilgrimage and not being able to enter churches. The beauty of the buildings is magnificent but to be able to go in and sit and meditate, pray and light a candle would be so welcome.

I hope your day has been great. Buen Camino.

We had such a nice place to stay last night. Our hosts just opened and we were their first guests. They absolutely extended so much hospitality.

It was supposed to rain all day but we were grateful that it didn’t. We headed out of town and immediately into the mud. But not for long.

Our first stop was at Auberge de Cleon where we had a lovely lunch and made that our main meal.

We made it another 7 kms to another possible stop. The place was open but not for drinks or food, but grocery shopping. The woman figured we are pilgrims and so invited us in and gave us some orange juice and let us sit. She told of her and her husband’s own camino. Nice, energy receiving stop. Still had 11 kms to go.

Our day was bookended with the howls of wind and mud squishing under our boots. So 5 kms before the end we had to clean our boots…again. And ten off we went.

We finally made it. Checked in. Ran errands. We are good, very tired but looking forward to the next three days and then finally making it to Vezelay!!!

Buen Camino!