Day 90 Zubiri Where We Met Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Last night we stayed in the monastery in Roncesvalles which is familiar to us. After the deluge we gave all our clothes to put in dryer which wasn’t ready before dinner. We had clothes to wear but it was interesting…

There was a lot of noise last night, more than I remember at the monastery. But it is what it is. People started moving at 4:30 but things really started around 5:30. So we got up with them.

One of the best things today was there were cafes open. This may sound silly but it gives you a place to stop and rest!

The last bit of the walk today was super challenging. Way down hill, very rocky, and a bit slippery.

We got to Zubiri and were super happy. This is where Lindsay and I met Mitchell and Noël. It’s a happy memory for us. For Noël since Saint Jean Pied de Port he feels like he has come home. And it feels like the journey of 1600 kms has just started.

I hope to write more about this.

Day 89 Thunder on the Mountain SJPdP to Roncesvalles by way of Valcarlos

We made it from SJPdP to Roncesvalles. It was a deluge all day and for the last 3 kms the temps dropped dramatically and the rain turned to ice. This alternative route is every bit as difficult as the other one and not as pretty, not that we could see anything because of the clouds and rain. So perhaps it is pretty as well. It’s supposed to get colder and there is a possibility of snow and ice. Oh well!!

We had a really nice lunch in Valcarlos about halfway for our trip today. As we came across the last steep climb about 4 kms from our destination we heard thunder, it sounded like it was coming out of the mountain itself. The loud rumble made us want to get to our destination faster but alas that wasn’t working because of the steep climbs!

There was a lovely pilgrim dinner at several of the local restaurants. We ate at Hotel Roncesvalles. It was very nice. We met other pilgrims from Spain, Korea, Canada, Brazil to name a few. We are staying at the Roncesvalles monastery. In order to help pilgrims crossing the Pyrenees along the St James’ Way, around 1127, the Bishop of Pamplona, requested by King Alfonso I ‘the Battler’, founded the Roncesvalles Hospitality Institution. It has been updated and is run by Dutch. Oh and walking back after dinner it started snowing.

Tomorrow we head to Zubiri, where Lindsay and I met Mitchell and Noël for the first time.

Day 88 another Rest day-observing the pilgrims arriving in SJPdP

We have walked around a bit today and have seen pilgrims arriving. Some walked in, others by bus and I think some by train.

As we observe them I notice somet that I remember from previous Caminos.

The Excitement and Anticipation of starting your camino. Most likely there has been months possibly years of planning, training and saving to be at this moment. Some people do go on camino on the spur of the moment though.

There are also some who show a bit of Fear or Uncertainty. That’s completely normal especially if you have traveled any distance and perhaps do not speak French.

One of the things I remember vividly about my first Camino was arriving in Saint Jean Pied de Port late in the afternoon and deciding I would leave the next morning no matter what. I gave myself no time to adjust to the time change. I don’t regret it because of the people I met. My enthusiasm to get started was overwhelming.

It will be interesting to see who we meet and connect with this time. Each Camino has grown our camino family. I have so many connections all over the world because of walking the Camino. And for this I am forever grateful.

Tomorrow we head out on a new adventure. And even though it is somewhat familiar, it seems very different and unique I have the same enthusiasm, anticipation, excitement as I have before. The fear and uncertainty have transformed into wonder and confidence. As always thank you for accompanying us on this most magnificent adventure. Buen Camino!!

Day 87 Rest Day #1 exploring SJPdP again

We began our stay in SJPdP by emptying our packs, reorganizing and realizing we don’t need everything we have anymore. It was very liberating and our packs feel better.

Noël decided after 87 days it was time to get a haircut and he shaved for the second time. He looks like a new person!!

Noël did our laundry in the shower and reapplied waterproof stuff to our boots. It was a sunny day so the clothes dried fast.

We found the best Italian restaurant in St Jean Pied de Port. It’s right next door to where we are staying. We visited with another couple who were just passing through. Funny thing is they are Presbyterian.

Tears keep welling up in my eyes the past few days. Not sure what that is about other than it’s been an amazing journey and we are a bit tired. Speaking of that we had planned to go back to the Italian restaurant for dinner, they open again at 6:30, but we fell asleep around 5:30 and woke up at 9. The restaurant was closed by then. So we just went back to sleep. I guess after 87 days there’s some sleep to catch up on. 😂

A new opportunity vs a disappointment. The Napoleon Route over the Pyrenees is closed until 1 April. It could even be closed longer due to the weather conditions. It’s the way I have always gone. There’s a lovely stop 9kms up called Orisson. All along our journey we have commented that we will be in the best shape to tackle this mountain this time. Unfortunately the timing didn’t work. So now we have the opportunity to get to Roncesvalles another way. Not as steep but apparently still tough and beautiful. We will be on our way early Friday. And we are excited!