Last night in Zubiri the terraces were full with conversation and laughter. It’s so fun to hear and be a part of. What wasn’t so fun were the church bells ringing on the hour, again at five minutes for the hour and on the half hour. We heard them all!!!!

Observations:

It seems like on the second or third day friendships and groups begin to really form. You see people gravitate towards each other. This often happens because of shared communal meals, staying in the same places multiple nights, passing each other several times on the same mountain, shared experiences, shared pain, and so much more. 

On the third day of pilgrimage you really see these groups form as people walk into a village and past a cafe and everyone shouts a hello. So much fun to see people connecting and finding encouragement. 

One of the other observations is seeing people helping each other. Today we heard a story from Madeline from Italy. She was struggling up a hill. Yesterday we stopped to talk to her and she explained that she had a disease in her neck that still caused her problems. She assured us she would be fine though we encouraged her to send her pack ahead. 

Today we sat at a cafe and Madeline joined us. She sent her pack ahead today and shared with us that a gentleman slowed down yesterday to walk with her. He was still walking with her. It was nice. Noël wondered if he helped her to help himself, in other words he needed to slow down so walking with her helped him do that. Regardless it was nice. 

Wies is a guy from Manchester that we have spoke with from time to time. Yesterday he sat down at the food truck with us and we exchanged names. He left before we did from the food truck. And as we headed down the steep incline he had stopped. We asked if he was okay and he said his knee was not good. He doesn’t take pharmaceuticals. He assured us he was fine. 

We met up again today and he asked about the sports tape he saw us wear on the first day. So Noël offered to tape his knee. We came to a village with only a vending machine and a few chairs and Noël got his knee taped. His plan once he reached Pamplona was to get another walking stick and some tape. As we walked along I offered him one of my sticks to see if it helped him. He was grateful for the help and advice and is planning to get another stick. 

Last funny thing…we saw two pilgrims walking towards Pamplona only they missed a sign so Noël and I shouted to them about where to go. Another pilgrim cheekily said “the camino teaches, don’t tell them.” To which I replied, “I am the camino!”  I didn’t mean it in some superior way but rather we are all here to help each other and that is the camino spirit. 

Just a few observations and stories from today. Hope you are well. Buen Camino! 

The morning started a bit later than the past few mornings. We got our breakfast to go which was actually our lunch because there’s a nice cafe at the entrance to Burgette. Somehow our clothes didn’t completely dry so we wore wet clothes to start our walk. They were wetter the more we walked. Sorry if that is TMI. 

The day was really awesome. Okay it was warm and humid, but still so nice. We have met some wonderful and interesting people. Many of these people have asked for advice or recommendations. And they have been interested and accepting of tips and advice. That’s was fun today. 

Today’s walk wasn’t a piece of cake, but nothing like yesterday. There were some ups and downs. The most difficult descent comes at the very end. And this is why it is considered one of the most difficult days. This was the first time I have come down this route when it was completely dry. There was supposed to be rain but it held off until after we got into Zubiri. 

So when we go uphill  Noël stays behind me in case I stumble. You know my clumsiness. When going downhill Noël usually goes first. He’s a bit faster (unless we are on asphalt). Today as we started down I was in front. I felt confident and strong and thought to myself “I’ve found my inner mountain goat again!” At some point  Noël said, “You’re walking your downhill swing.” In other words I had found my inner mountain goat. It was so nice. 

Remember it’s okay to be fearful and to be careful. It’s also okay to find your inner mountain goat and go for it. 

I will say we are very sore and tired. And that’s a good thing. 

Buen Camino!!

We started out early 6:15 from SJPdP. There was 94% humidity and we were drenched within 2 kms. I started feeling a bit lightheaded and nauseous and told Noël that I may have to take a cab after we reach Orisson only 9 kms into our walk. I kept having to take small breaks because my heart rate was getting too high. 

When we reached Orisson I was spent. My legs felt weak. My heart rate was staying high. I was still dizzy and nauseated. We got some food and started talking to other pilgrims. And I started feeling stronger and better. So we started out again after a good rest. 

One of my favorite parts of this particular walk are the horses, cows, sheep with bells. It’s like they are cheering you on this particularly difficult walk!! it’s as if the are shouting: “you’ve got this. Keep going!!!” And you do!! Taking breaks, working on breath, pacing yourself!!

At the food truck (about 15 kms of 27kms) we met a woman, Juliana. I assume she is from the states but didn’t ask. We kept running into her and she realized we had walked multiple Caminos so started asking questions. At one point she thanked us for all the helpful advice. And then she said, “I love your energy!” I smiled at Noël and said, “that’s super nice since we weren’t feeling this today.” It made me realize despite how you are feeling you can lift others up and I promise you it will lift you up too. 

We made it to Roncesvalles, it only took us 10 hours and 45 minutes to go 27 kms/16.77 miles and 1500 meters/4921 feet. And we are beat. We sat down after checking in to have a drink and Noël looked at me and said, “I’m in tears because of what you did today. You pushed through. You did it.” To which I said, “you were struggling too! We did it!!”

Exhausting but great day!!! I hope the obstacles that you have encountered in your day have not stopped you!!

Buen camino. 

Last night’s festivities were still going on as we made our way to the bus station at 5:45. Although, I must say with much less vigor than through the night. Mostly young people finding friends, taking pees, kissing on doorsteps and the street cleaners busy at work. It’s something we have noticed in Spain after big events the clean up is immediate. 

We managed to find our bus even though it was at a different number than what was on the screen. While stopping for gas we were able to get our first cup of coffee 3 hours after leaving our accommodation. I had my coffee sitting on the table in front of me connected to the chair in front of me when a gentleman sat down very hard and the hot coffee went flying. My quick reflexes kept it from being a bigger mess. 

It’s interesting to me how things become familiar. I have been to St. Jean Pied de Port a number of times now. I remember the first time feeling overwhelmed, not because of going on  pilgrimage alone but because of not being able to speak French. I was excited about my pilgrimage alone. I came in by bus by way of Paris. Two other times by bus from Pamplona. The last time we walked in and now we will take the train from Bayonne. While waiting for our train we met Anders from Sweden. We sat together on the train and continued a fun conversation. 

There always seems to be a feeling of great excitement coming to SJPdP. Pilgrims everywhere, experienced ones and new ones. On the train there was a buzz of people sharing information and getting to know one another. It was a lot of fun. 

After checking in and making a stop at the pilgrim’s shop we got in line to register and get our credentials. We visited with a lovely couple from Connecticut, Marty and Liza. 

My dear friend D.C. replied to my blog story about the sandals (chacos) we ordered with this, “I read that you were going to pick up the chaos you had ordered! What? Who orders chaos? Chacos, DC! Errr. Have a lovely time TOGETHER! All the best!” It made me laugh so hard because there are days on pilgrimage and in life that you wonder, “Who ordered this CHAOS!”

Wishing my son, William a very Happy Birthday today. Love you so much and am so proud of you. Talk to you in just a bit!!

Buen Camino!