We started out early again today with no breakfast, waiting for that first stop. We found it. It was okay. In the meantime another dog started falling us. I kept telling her to go home. We crossed the bridge and she didn’t follow. We decided she was a farm dog.
We were making our way to Leon to have lunch with our friend Uroš, and we made it to Leon in really good time. So we stopped in at a pilgrim shop. After 2100 kms we figured my backpack is too big for me. And I also got a new pair of sandals. I will not wear the boots anymore for this trip. My feet demand freedom. (Photos of the new pack and sandals tomorrow.)
We decided to stay outside Leon today. Tomorrow is another long day. Hope you are well.
This morning we headed out early to have breakfast at the next village. It was 7 kms. And our breakfast was so great. Noël had two fried eggs with bacon, tomato, toast, fresh orange juice and coffee. I had the same without bacon and a coffee con leche. The woman was so welcoming. After we sat down more pilgrims came in and the place was packed.
After breakfast we started out of town and saw a figure in the distance. It was someone wearing a protective vest like many workers wear in Spain. We couldn’t tell if he was cleaning or he was a pilgrim. As we got closer we realized that it was a very old man taking baby steps along the road with a walking stick. As we approached him I noticed his hand shaking. As we were about to pass him he looked at us and wished us Buenas Dias. We wished him the same. The cemetery was very close to where he was so I wondered if he was going to visit someone.
My heart overflowed at that moment. And I just started sobbing. I wondered what he was doing alone, if he was missing someone. Noël thought it might be his daily routine to get out for a morning walk.
As I have mentioned the Meseta draws you inward to think and ponder and maybe resolve. It strengthens you on a mental level. So as I walked today I thought of so many of my loved ones, family and friends who are struggling with grief, illness, challenges, disappointments, etc. And I began naming you one by one with each step I took. I then began to think of others not struggling but enjoying life and its wonders. And I began naming you one by one with each step.
I felt so close to so many people even though the distance is real. So thank you for helping me walk today. It was a beautiful and healing day for me.
We had a great dinner with other pilgrims last night…countries represented UK, USA, Belgium, The Netherlands, and Slovenia. There was lots of good conversations and laughter and good food and shared stories.
We decided to send some stuff ahead while still carrying our packs. One of the other pilgrims, Karen from Texas, USA, caught up with us and we talked and walked all the way to Sahugun. We also stopped every chance we got today because the last 10 kms was without another village. One of the places we stopped there was a guy who did a wax stamp. Super cool.
In Sahugun you can get a halfway Compostela because you are halfway on the Frances route. We took the time to do this. It was a gift but it meant buying a ticket to the museum. We also got another pilgrim passport (credential) we have almost filled 4.
Karen was stopping in Sahugun and only going as far as Leon so we said our goodbyes as we will probably not see her again. Our friend Uroš from Slovenia came with us to get our halfway Compostela and then we walked together for a bit. He’s a faster walker than we are so went on to Bercianos del Real Camino.
As we entered the town he is walking back towards us very upset. “Everything is closed!!” We told him we had a reservation at the next albergue. “Closed!! Everything is closed!!” Will you walk 100 meters with us and see? He agreed.
We were able to get into the albergue where Marti tried to help him because she is actually closed today. She had four reservations but hadn’t cleaned the albergue because she didn’t need to. She finally told him he could stay here. Our reservation was for a quadruple room with bunk beds. Two men arrived before we did so had the two bottom bunks. Marti offered for us to take that or we could sleep upstairs with Uroš. Well that was a hard choice…bottom bunk or top bunk. 😂😂😂
It’s been a very good day. Hard to believe we are at the last stage of our epic adventure. I wonder what we are planning next.
Tripping Into Grace 