After 2500 kms there are so many emotions…joy, sadness, frustration, anticipation, playfulness, confidence, feeling small, upbeat…

Let me start with frustration. I’m a big proponent of people experiencing the Camino at whatever pace, distance, pack level that they want. We walked from Mercadoiro to Sarria completely alone. It was peaceful and good. We didn’t sleep well due to pilgrims coming in loud after 10 pm.

When we arrived in Sarria I was so surprised at the number of pilgrims! I’ve never seen this many pilgrims. It’s a Spanish holiday. I’m so happy Spaniards walk the camino. I’m sad they don’t say “Buen Camino”. I mean some do but still it’s a little sad. And the teenagers lack manners.

Now let me talk about joy! Occasionally I just dance!! No reason. Just feeling joyful. I breathe the fresh air, I walk 20 kms, I talk to other pilgrims, I eat good food…I feel great. I feel joy!!!

Last emotion is sadness…as much joy that I have about this amazing journey it’s a little sad that it is coming to an end. Or is it actually coming to an end? Is “the end” an opportunity to pause before the next big adventure. And then my sadness turns to joy again.

I have to admit today was emotional for me/us. I think I have mentioned that it’s a Spanish holiday. There are more pilgrims than I have ever seen.

We had a really nice place to stay yesterday and a delicious dinner. We even had a cow parade in front of our hostel. When we were about to go to sleep a group of pilgrims arrived at 10 pm and were very loud coming up the stairs to their rooms. We knew that as we entered this last stage of the Camino and our great adventure that things would change, we just didn’t realize how much.

From Terneuzen to Le Puy en Velay we didn’t see a single pilgrim, granted it was winter. After Le Puy en Velay we encountered maybe 20 pilgrims. Once in St Jean Pied de Port the numbers grew to about 200 and the numbers increased daily but not to more than 500-700 (just a guess).

Today we left the little town of Pintin early and we were the only pilgrims on the road until Sarria. As we came into Sarria there were swarms of pilgrims, school groups, groups of friends, tour groups, single pilgrims, families…etc. Our estimate is that there were at least 1500-2000 pilgrims starting out today. We only saw three people that we have seen since SJPdP.

This is a holiday week in Spain so lots of Spanish pilgrims.

We met a lovely couple from Mexico. They said that on 6 May they will have been married a year. After visiting with them and hearing each other’s stories they gave us a small card from Mexico with a picture of Mary and on the back The Magnificat. It was such a simple and lovely gift.

All in all it was a lovely day. Not what we are used to, but still good. Still because there are so many pilgrims on the route right now and accommodation is hard to come by, we may have to shift and adjust. “Pilgrimage is a journey of thoughtful intention with an unknown outcome.”

Buen Camino! Ultreia!!

Started the day in a mist, that got a bit heavier. I decided it was time to put on the poncho. As we started to get our ponchos on the rain turned to ice and within 5 minutes we had a snowstorm again.

After 6 kms we entered a village that had an open cafe. There was another pilgrim there. We ordered breakfast. The young woman pilgrim had wet feet because her shoes were flimsy. She walked across the cafe with wet sock feet to the fire place. The owner made a remark. Then handed her a menu, In Other words please order some if you are taking advantage of our services.

I was well aware that the young woman wasn’t understanding. She looks quizzically at the menu and set it on the table. I was struggling of the balance between helping a pilgrim in need and taking advantage of those who are making a livelihood along the Camino.

I walked over to her and asked her if she would like a coffee or tea? She chose tea. The owner seemed to appreciate what I did. The pilgrim appreciated what I did. It was so simple.

We had a nice day walking. But have noticed that more and more pilgrims are showing up so decided to book from here to Santiago de Compostela. Everything is completo. So we booked a bit ahead on one day (42 kms) and will probably take a cab part of the way. I can’t imagine what the full season will look like.

Still an amazing adventure!!