Author: mammamia63

Day 7 Primitivo (Fonsagrada to O Cadavo)

This morning we woke up a little later because we were taking a taxi part of the way today. The hike today is called the leg wrecker because of a few very steep ascents and even more drastic descents. The description also included lots of mud if it had been raining, which it has for several days This is not the way we want to do this but as we descended the stairs and our knees were already painful or uncomfortable we knew we had made the right  decision. 

We had a scary taxi ride around some very sharp curves at a high speed. I mean it was fine but at one point I questioned our decision, only once. 

Our taxi driver left us in a small town. When stepping out of the cab we were hit with very strong winds. We put on our rain ponchos and started out. We still had a couple of steep ascents and one very steep descent into Cadavo but doable. 

We are grateful that we can make some choices about how to continue so that we take care of our bodies. Your kind words have helped as well. Thank you. 

I hope you are doing well and find ways today to take the best care of you. Even when we aren’t on a long pilgrimage we are still on this journey called life. Buen camino!

Day 4 Primitivo (Espina to Campiello)

We had a pretty long walk ahead of us so we started very early. Everyone in our room was up by 5:15 so we started getting ready. We left by 6 am. It was going to be at least 10 kms before finding food. 

We started in complete darkness through a forest. As the sun came up we saw some beautiful vistas again. We climbed. And we finally entered Tineo. We thought we were headed to a cafe to get breakfast but when we walked in they said they were closed. 

Everyone we came across in town wanted us to know we were going the wrong way. We kept saying, “comer, we want to eat” finally someone pointed out a cafe. It was packed with locals but we enjoyed a Spanish tortilla. And we were hungry enough to enjoy another, knowing that this was our only stop. 

We made our way back to the camino and climbed way up. And were in a lot of mud. It’s okay it washes off. 

We made our way into Campiello and were able to eat an early dinner. We met Ray from Wisconsin, saw Shannon from Florida. We made it an early night because of getting up and going early. It was another good day. 

My apologies for getting days confused. I think I’m on schedule again!! 

Buen Camino!!

Day 6 Primitivo (San Julian to Fonsagrada)

If you are into an elitist pilgrimage please scroll forward. We are being super careful not to get injured so we have decided to take shorter days but stick to the stages. 

And to be fair we want to be in Santiago de Compostela the same time friends whom we have met will be arriving. It’s all part of the Camino. 

We met a couple Marty and Liza from Connecticut. Marty’s knee is a problem so he has had to adjust his camino. They even rented bicycles for a portion of the camino. 

We met Karen and Bryan from Australia and she had some issues and bussed a day or two. Everyone has to listen to their body and adjust. I have said before that it’s better to listen to your body when it whispers than to have to listen to it when it screams. 

Today we left San Julian by taxi a d we were deposited at an intersection where we could start walking. I checked the weather and there was supposed to be no rain, only there was lots of rain. So on the side of the road I unpacked my bag to change from my Chaco sandals to my boots, best idea ever. We also had a short discussion about ponchos and yes ponchos were needed. 

The last climb into Fonsagrada was a bear of a climb. We took it slow and once again succeeded at something that while climbing I had my doubts. 

Doubts. Especially self doubt can stop you so many times. Remember where you are and how far you have come. You are amazing!!!

We arrived and had to wait to check in to our accommodation so we explored, sent extra backpack on to SdC, and found a pizza joint. So delicious and such gracious hosts!!

Buen Camino!

Day 5 Primitivo (Campielloto San Julian)

Today was going to be a very long day and very steep so we got up early and headed out by 6:30 in the morning with headlamps. Today also had no real stops so we had to take extra water and food. 

In a small village in the dark we spotted a cafe. It was actually a concrete building with a coffee machine and vending machine. It was a welcome respite after 4 kms. We enjoyed a quick coffee and kept moving. And forgot see the most beautiful sunset.

Today you had a choice to go over the big mountain and see the ruins of several hospitals (places for pilgrims) with no food or water stops or go another route that had some places for food. We chose to go over. 

We climbed over 1000 meters/3300 feet. As we reached one of the peaks the wind came up full force. So we not only climbed but we had the wind in our face. The path was often next to steep drops down the mountain. I was clinging to the mountain. 

Wild horses on top of the mountain

At one of the hospital ruins we stopped to eat some pasta we had made for the day. It was delicious!! The steep ups and downs were wreaking havoc on Noël’s knees. We were able to take another break and finish our pasta. It was again delicious. 

After ascending over 1000 meters means you have to go down and down we went. It was steep and stony and terrifying. 

We had planned to make it to Berducedo but missed it by 3,6 kms. When we got to Lago we called the taxi we had arranged for Berducedo to San Julian and she said she could come get us. The choice to go to San Julian 20 kms on was due to difficulty finding accommodation. 

There are choices you make on pilgrimage as well as in life in order to take good care of yourself, for physical health and mental health and spiritual health. I struggled with this for many years thinking you had to just keep going. Rest and self care are so important!! 

We stayed at a lovely Casa Rurales in San Julian a bit off of the camino. 

Buen Camino!!